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International Living Article
Secrets of Ecuador's sacred valley of longevity - one of the healthiest places on earth
By Suzan Haskins
Ecuador uses de U.S. dollar
Tucked away deep in southem Ecuador is
Vilcabamba, in the heart of the country's southem
province ofLoja, bordering Perú. In Quechua, ancient
language of the Incas still spoken today by Quechua
Indians throughout the Andes, "vilca" translates as
"sacred" and "bomba" means "valley."

Sacred and stunning it is. And affordable. The
asking price for one five-bedroom traditional
Ecuadorian house on 2.5 acres with lots of fruit crees
isjust $50,000.

But let me back up and tell you why Vilcabamba
is considered one of the healthiest places in the worid
to live.
"We were impressed, as always, with thebeauty ofthe Ecuadorian countryside.
But somehow fhis felt different. All around us, mountain peaks reached for
the sky, and below us a visual delight unfolded green, sordy rolling hills
interrupted by stands oftrees where narrow but swift-flowing rivers carved
paths on fheir longjourneys to the coast.
On the mountain ledges, small villages perched. And at the very basín, the
village of Vilcabamba beckoned. Thiswas the place we had been looldng for
the Shangri-La ofthe Andes."
As our taxi crested the hill overlooking this big bowl of check-ered fields, we were impressed, as always, with the beauty oí" the Ecuadorian countryside. But somehow this felt different. All around us, mountain peaks reached for the sky, and below us a visual delight unfolded green, softiy rolling hills interrupted by stands of trees where narrow but swift-flowing rivers carved paths on their long joumeys to the coast. On the mountain ledges, small villages perched. And at the very basin, the village oí" Vilcabamba beckoned. This was the place we had been looking for the Shangri- La ofthe Andes.

Among young backpackers and aging hippies, Vilcabamba is known for the hallucinogenic juice of
its San Pedro cactus plant.

But Vilcabamba's biggest claim to fame is its reputation as the "Valley of Longevity." This reputation was perpetuated Ín the 1970s when a series of magazine reports, among them one by National Geographíc, claimed that an unusual number of this valley's inhabitants were reported to be 100 to 120 years oíd. Although those tales tumed out to have been exaggerated, there are a number of very healthy, energetic people in their 80s and 90s bounding around this hilly countryside like nimble but wizened mountain goats. (Whether this is in any way connected to the ingestión of San Pedro juice we couldn't say.)
Secrets of longevity
Since those original reports, foreign scientists and others have come to research the geography, climate, soil, and water conditions of the valley in hopes of discovering the key to the longevity of its inhabitants. Japanese scientists with a negative ion-producing machine detennined that, because the valley is already charged by negative ionization, their machine couid not produce any effect on the ambiance. This was, they decided, in part due to evening electrical storms that grounded on the looming Mt. Mandango. For this reason the air in Vilcabamba feeis always as crisp and deán as after a strong, cleansing storm. The Japanese concluded that people live to an oíd age here because they breathe this puré air, which produces a "chelating effect" (a process that helps to elimínate toxins) on their bodies.
Scientists from the U.S. determined that the secret to the longevity of Vilcabambans is the perfect mineral balance found in the drinking water, which aiso produces a "chelating effect." Frenen scientists later decided mis effect comes from the valley's climate. Living here, your metabolism does not have to adjust to extremes in temperature, they said, and that energy is used instead to eliminate toxins from the body.
    A nigth to remember
    Practically since the day we arrived in Ecuador, our friend Marco Quintana has been urging us to visit Vilcabamba, where he moved from Mexico six year ago. He and his wife and two young daughters (one is just a moth old) raise coffee and organic fruits and vegetables on their 85-acre Quinta Contenta farm, along with cows, chickens, and some of the finest riding horses around. They even bottle their own delicious honey. All produce will come in handy, as Marco has just opened Vilcabamba's newest restaurant, El Jardin, specializing in authentic Mexican food.
    Marco his inmerses himself in his new community and was recently asked to join a committee to develop ecoturism and protect the environment of both Vilcabamba and nearby Podocarpus National Park. He also dabbles in real state and has developed a community website (www.vilcabamba.org) that promotes the business and touristm activities of the area.
    Did I mention that Marco is also an accomplished musician? He toured with reggar legend Bob Marley and with renowned reggar group Burning Spear. On our firts nigth in Vilcabamba, he and some local musicians treated us to a live performance at Hotel Izhcayluma's cabana bar. My husband, Dan-also a talented musician-sat in a saxofophone. The stars were out, the people came and danced, it was a night to remember for us all.
A prescription for living to a jolly old age
More likely, valley residents live longer Uves because in addition to benefiting from fresh air, deán water, and a constantly températe dimate they follow the prescription that the rest ofus have been given (but don't necessarily follow) for living to ajolly oíd age.They eat a balanceó, primarily vegetarían diet, get plenty of exercise, have strong family ties, and a relaüve lack of stress.

Yes, maybe Vilcabamba is Shangri-La. Plenty of people seem to think so. Remember those aging hippies I mentioned earlier? Some of them made it to Vilcabamba in the 70s as backpackers and never left. The mcllow lifestyie, organic food, and communing with nature was exactly what they were looking for. Today they work hard to ensure that Vilcabamba remains the gentle, pristine place they fell in love with.

That doesn't mean they don't welcome others who fínd their way to this special place and decide to stay. Vilcabamba has recently been settied by a worid-class cellist from Austria, a prolific cookbook author from Germany, and others like our friend Marco Quintana.

Marco has developed a website, www.vilcabamba.org, which promoles the many virtues of the valley and nearby Podacarpus National Park. Along with being a new restaurant owner and hotelier, Marco aiso dabbles in real estáte. The website providesa glimpse of some of his featured properties, which he took us to see during our visit.

One of them, called Red House, is two-and-a-half miles from Vilcabamba. On 7.5 acres of gentle slopes, the main house is composed of a kitchen, a bathroom, a bedroom, two living rooms, a storeroom, and a large roof-top terrace with a beautiful view of the valley and villageNext to the main house is the storehouse with terrace and carport perfect for conversión to an outdoor barbecue and lounge.
Just down the hill, a restful one-room guesthouse features sieeping space, cooking facilities, and a prívate bathroom. Farther down the hill, fíat land, perfect for grazing horses, aiso provides a streamside picnic spot. The asking pnce for this property hasjust dropped to $80,000, and Marco says even that is negotiable.

Across the road from Red House, Chaupi House is a two-story traditional Ecuadorian house with live bedrooms on 2.5 acres with lots of fruit trees and an irrigation canal that provides fresh water year-round. The asking pnce for Chaupi House Ís $50,000.
Horses can go anywhere in Vilcabamba, and we rodé right into the center oftown where we stopped at a sidewaik café for a cold drink. The people here take pride in their community. The central plaza Ís perfectly manicured and impeccably deán with a fountain that really works. Around the square, shopkeepers and restaurateurs opérate from traditional colonial-styie buildings with pillared walkways over narrow side- waiks and second-story balconies with tiled roofs, allcheerfully painted and deán.

Yes, you'd want to grow old here

As we sat, transfixed, children played in the square, young artisans sold their jeweiry from blankets spread on the sidewaik, and rancheros passed by showing off the fancy footwork of their paso finos (fine-gaited horses). Yes, lite is good here. Whether it is the scenery, the "chclating effect" ofthe air, water, or dimate, or the warm, wonderíul people, there really is something that makes you want to grow oíd in this place.
Until just a few years ago, the valley of Vilca-bamba, and the village by the same ñame, was virtually inaccessible, Ísolated because of the lack of a proper road. Now, this beautiful place is becoming a destination of choice for savvy travelers.
"As we sat, transfíxed, children played in the square, young ardsans sold their
Jeweiry from blankets spread on the sidewaik,and rancheros passed by showing off
the fáncy footwork of their paso finos (fíne-gaited horses). Yes, Ufe is good here.
Whether it is the scenery, the "chelating effect" of the air, water,
or climate, or the warm, wonderful people,
there really is something that mákes you want to grow oíd in this place."
Fifteen hours by bus

You can getjust about anywhere in Ecuador by bus -if you're up for the trip. The trip by bus from Quito to Loja (stopping-off point for Vilcabamba) takes more than 15 hours, often over rough roads. Better to fiy. For about $55 you can catch a direct flight from Quito to La Toma airport, nearLoja. As ofthis writing, Ecuador's Tame Airline flies its Boeing 727 there Monday through Saturday at 5:45 a.m., and from Guayaquil on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays at 9:35 a.m. At 4 p.m. (a more civilized time to travel) Wednesdays to Fridays and on Sundays, Icaro Airline flies a smaller plane, the 19- passenger Fokker-built Beechcraft 1900 D.

The flight to La Toma Airport from either Quito or Guayaquil lasts onc hour. From there, Icaro Airline provides van service to Loja (usually $3). Or you can take a shared taxi to Loja ($2.50) where there is bus and taxi service ($1 shared, $5 non-shared) to the valley. An airport taxi directly to Vilcabamba costs $20-$30 (per taxi, not per person). Sometimes your hotel or hostal will provide transportaíion from the airport. Tt doesn't hurt to ask.

The taxi ride from the airport to Loja takes 30 minutes and from there it is another 45 minutes to Vilcabamba.

For more information, contact Tame in Quito, tel. (593)2-250-9382; in Guayaquil, tel. (593)4-231-0305; and in Loja, tel. (593)7-570-248; website: www.tame.com.ec. To contact Icaro Airline in Quito, tel. (593)2-245-0928; in Loja, tel. (593)7-578-4 J6; website: www.icaro-air.com.
    Where to stay?
    In Vilcabamba, we recommend the Hostería Izhcayluma al $8 per person for a double room -an outstanding value. An American breakfast of coffe or tea, scrambled eggs and ham, toast, and homemade marmalade is just $2. For more information, contact Peter or Dieter, e-mail: izhcaylum@yahoo.com; website: www.izhcayluma.com. (There are no telephone.)
    Another interesting spot is Hostería Madre Tierra, an electic, funky, fun place with full spa services, including massage, hot mud baths, exfoliation treatments, and more. Costs for a room at Madre Tierra are $15 per person to $50 for a nice suite for two. A 60-minute full-body massage is $30, a 50-minute facial is $11.50, and the soecial 40-minute colonic irrigation will set you back just $18.80. For more information, tel.(593)7-580-269; e-mail: hmtierra@impsat.net.ec.
    Hosteria Vilcabamba
    Hostería de Vilcabamba is modern and a bit sterile but rigth in town. Rates there are $20 for a single room or $28 for a double room. For reservations, tel (593)-7-580-271; e-mail: Info@vilcabamba.org.
    Another in-town option is the Hidden Garden Hostal at $8 per person. It's clean, confortable and has great on-site restaurant. For reservations, tel. (593)-7-580-281; e-mail:hiddengarden@yahoo.com.
    If you want to get away from it all, try Charlie's Cabañas Rio Yambala , just outside town on the path to Podocarpus National Park. A private cabin, including dinner and breakfast, is $10 to $12 per person. For more information, e-mail: rio_yambala@yahoo.net; website: www.vilcabamba.cwc.net.
    In Loja, try the Hotel Libertador at Colón and Bolívar. For reservations, tel.(593)-7-560-779. You'll pay about $45 for a suite, and the restaurant there is highly recommended. Just around the corner, at Avenida Sucre and 10 de Agosto, the Hotel Acapulco is more basic but clean and comfortable, $26 for a double room. For reservation, tel. (593)-7-570-651
    Maybe you want to buy a hotel? Check out the Hotel Americano on 10 de Agosto, just one-half block from the University. This 75-year-old hotel offers 65 rooms. The asking price is $800,000. For information, tel.(593)-7-570-301
Dont overlook Loja

Loja, just 38 miles north of Vilcabamba, is a horse of a different color altogether larger and more industrial than Vilcabamba. For most travelers, it is not so much a destination as a place to change buses before heading down to Vilcabamba or on to Perú.

But these travelers are missing out. Loja is a pleasant city, and real estáte can be a real bargain.

A check of the classified section of La Hora, the local newspaper, shows brand-new apartments selling for $15,850 and a large two-story home in a good neighborhood for $50,000. But what caught my eye was an ad for a 37.5-acreJmca (farm) with a large eight-bedroom house with a games' room, a tennis court,and a swimming pool for $120,000. And the ad says "negotiable." lfyou're interested, tel. (593)7-575-914,

Loja was originally founded in the valley of Catamayo, now the site of La Toma airport. But after suffering a series of earthquakes, the city was rebuilt by Spanish Captain Alonso de Mercadillo in 1548, 19 miles away on the other side of the green mountain range of the southern Andes. It was during this time that Spanish chronicler Cieza de León wrote glowingly of the prosperity of the área and of the vast herds of llamas, vicuñas, and guanacos he observed when he rodé through Loja on the Royal Inca Highway. Unfortunately, the Spanish conquerors soon hunted mese beautiful animáis to near extinction.

Today, Loja boasts 95,000 inhabitants, two universities, one of which is a law school, and a music conservatory. In the colonial center, there are three main plazas and tidy parks anchored by a towering, neatly painted cathedral. One of the oidest cities in Ecuador, Loja's age is evident in its rich colonial architecture, narrow streets, and ISth-century homes. And, thanks to an eccentric but visionary mayor, José Bolívar Castillo, it may be one of the cleanest cities in Latín América. (Bolívar is now being mentioned as a possible vice pres- Ídential candidate in the upcoming country elections.)

Under his guidance, restrictions on the height of new building construction have been imposed, and a specific color palette for building exteriors in the colonial center has been introduced. Most effectively, trash receptacles have been installed on nearly every comer.
    Real Estate Contacts
    In Vilcabamba, contact Marco Quintana at the Hidden Garden Hostal or Restaurante El Jardin. (Just ask around, everyone on town knows Marco as "El Mexicano") Or contact him at tel. (593)7-580-897 or (593)7-580-281; e-mail: quintacontenta@yahoo.com; website: www.vilcabamba.org.
    In Loja, contact real estate agent José Caraguay Medina, tel. (593)7-578-082; e-mail: vyt@impsat.net.ec. His office is on the second floor at Sucre 09-61 between Rocafuerte and Miguel Riofrío. Another resource at the same location is Bienes Raices Valdivieso Toledo, tel. (593)7-570-880; e-mail: vyt@impsat.net.ec.
An economic sucess story

Loja is one of Ecuador's most pioneering cities and an example of smart economic development. In 1897, Loja was the first city in Ecuador to use electric energy. Since then, careful industrialization and modemízation have allowed Loja to retain its chann. Lojanos have managed to succeed financially without destroying their cultural heritage and natural resources.

It doesn't hurt, either, that Lojanos are welcoming and gracious. Friends of ours who live in Cuenca have visited Loja several times. Both musicians, they enjoy the cultural ambience and the openness of its people. "Loja is a friendiy place," our friend Lee says. "We were invited to the home of a local musician and a concert with some new acquaintances during our first brief three-day stay."

We plan to retum to Loja when we can stay longer. From the hustie and bustie around the city square, it seems prosperous and industrious. It has a city government that cares about its future. It even has a passably good French restaurant. Hmm, I wonder what the lite expectancy is here...
    Older than the Ice Age
    Podocarpus National Park straddles the El Nudo de Sabanilla mountain range in the triangular area bettween Loja, Vilcabamba and Zamora (40 miles southeast of Loja). Comprising more than 365,000 acrees, the park ranges in altitude from 3,100 to more than 12,000 feet... and in habitat from warm and humid upper tropical rainforest to cool, crisp alpine Paramo. This area is thought to predate the Ice Age. More than 550 species of birds have been sighted here, along with several large mammal species threatened or endangered throughout their ranges, including the mountain tapir, giant armadillo, notherm pudu deer, ocelot, spectacled bear and jaguar.
    If you'd like to spend time exploring the park up close and personal, contact charming New Zealander, Gavin Moore, of Caballos GAvilan. Gavin has lived in the area for more than 20 years, and he can take you to the places no one else can. As his brochure says, "Have you been to the edge? Gavilan takes you higher." A three-day horseback trek into the park with Gavin, including horses, food, and lodging, will cost you abour $80. For more information, e-mail: info@vilcabamba.org

Editor's note: Join Dan and Suzan this summer on their Discover Ecuador and Avenue of the Volcanoes Extensión Tour to see for yourself if the Valley ofLongevity makes you feel younger and healthier.

The Ecuador Discovery Tour is scheduled for July 18 to 28, starling in Quito, where you will receive fírsthand reports from local experts about what it Ís like to live in Ecuador, the "Land of Eternal Spring." You'11 visit properties in Quito as well as near Otavalo, site of South America's largest Indian market. From there you'11 head to the coast to explore properties in that área and even to spend a day at sea, whale watching.

The Avenue of the Volcanoes extensión tour, July 27 to Aug. 4, will be just as extraordinary. Climb aboard the Devil's Nose railway one ofthe 10 most exciting train rides in the world and travel through some of the most beautiful scenery in the Andes. After spending three nights in the charming colonial city of Cuenca, you'11 head for the warmth and serenity of Vilcabamba.

You can start your explorations of Ecuador with a visit to the Galápagos Islands, July 14 to 18. In this extraordinary haven for flora and fauna, Darwin formulated his theory of evolution in 1835.

For more information on this special series of programs: tel. (800)926-6575; e-mail: toiirs@InternationalLiving.com. IL
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